The disappearing German bratwurst
- Stephan Busch
- Aug 17, 2023
- 4 min read

In recent years it has happened to me often that I want a bratwurst and can't find one. And that in Germany! But the German Meatball (Frikadelle) that would help in this case is often gone too. Then just a Hackepeter (raw German meat on a bun) ! Also gone! And that even at German train stations where these three belonged like trains, conductors and delays. Well - the trains have only been running on time in Germany by chance for a long time, but do you want to make my waiting miserable even more?
Why is that? Perhaps the German Minister of Agriculture? He's a vegetarian and of Turkish descent, so more on the kebab, doner kebab side - no meat, please. I find those things everywhere.
Bratwurst is a German cultural asset that I have always admired. I certainly don't know what's in the bratwurst, just as I don't know what's in the kebab and doner kebab. It's probably better that I don't know.
In Regensburg there is still the sausage kitchen, a restaurant that has been serving sausages for more than 500 years according to the recipe from 500 years ago and the mustard according to a recipe that is just as old. The store is always full and you have to wait a long time for a sausage. I always go by to see that they haven't been replaced by a sisha bar yet. No - thank God they still exist. That relaxes me a little.
Then there is Meister Bock in Cologne Central Station. A classic for sausage lovers. Currywurst, Bratwurst and a legendary Mettwurst. Cash only - no card. Very cheap and tastes great. I also visit this culture corner every time.
But I often search in vain. What happened? We often had discussions about not serving pork in canteens to avoid shocking other cultures. I'm not shocked when I can't find pork sausage in Muslim countries. I'm more tolerant and don't think they do it on purpose. Of course, sausage can also be made from veal, beef, horse (a classic in Germany) or wild boar. The Austrians even have Käsekrainer where you can find cheese in the sausage. How one can come up with such ideas does not open up to me, but I assume they had to save on meat and chopped in what was nearby. As soon as someone notices, they call it a traditional recipe. Understood!
German evenings with knuckle of pork, sausage and all the trimmings are celebrated from Beijing to Washington and in Tokyo and Johannesburg and are well attended. In Germany we seem to be reducing this - just like the whole economy - at the moment. Is that better for the climate? But then what about the climate in Beijing, Washington, Tokyo and Johannesburg? Should I be worried about these now? I'm more worried about the bratwurst that should be near me - and isn't there anymore! The next time I ask for a bratwurst at Bremen's main train station, someone will probably tell me "We're not in Tokyo after all"! Understood! I'm afraid!
There has always been change, but a few things should remain. Bratwurst, meatballs and minced meat are part of it! Then a few very strange birds came up with the idea of inventing the vegetarian bratwurst and laboratory meat is now being produced in the States, which is already being served in the first restaurants. Reminds me a little of the US chlorinated chicken. Yummy! Vegetables now have to look their best like pork and taste like meat - the lab can do that better than the pig waiting in the barn south of Hanover. Did i miss something? It doesn't matter - I want my Bratwurst - Meatballs and Hackepeter! And from the pig!
On the other hand one day you will find out that there are far too many cows and pigs running around because the meat is now made from cucumbers and tomatoes or just from chemicals in the laboratory. What then? You could then process pork so that it looks and tastes like cabbage, spinach or asparagus. But does it all make sense?
Sometimes I have to switch to cheese rolls and sausage rolls, but someone had the brilliant idea of putting lettuce leaves and tomatoes on top. Why? Did I order salad? I suspect that the sausage and cheese slices will slowly disappear and only lettuce will be there. There's a method behind it.
The abolition of cash is being demanded more and more and will come one day. Since it is to our disadvantage, we will not be asked at all. The terrible thing about the bratwurst thing is that it's not even mentioned. I'm afraid one day I'll stand in front of Mr. Bock in the Cologne train station - without cash - and look sadly at the vegan sausage that I can't afford anymore! I don’t want it anyway!

Stephan Busch has an invaluable and diverse experience in the hospitality industry ranging from senior management positions with the most renowned hotel and resort companies to the project development - launch of operations, business development- for hotel and cruise companies in Asia, Europe, Canada and Russia.
His expertise includes not only planning, opening and operating of hotels, international golf clubs, airports, resorts and cruise ships, but also successful restructuring and repositioning of businesses during the financial crisis in Asia.
Stephan Busch earned his Master Certificate in Hospitality Management from Cornell University, USA and served many years as Academic Director / Faculty of Hospitality & Tourism at the State University for Humanities RGGU as well as the Swiss International University St. Petersburg.
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